Hi Everyone,
If the criteria for a national dish are that it must be the most popular and represent a nation’s heritage, then I think that we need to elevate Chinese Fried Rice to the status it deserves, a national dish.
Here are the reasons:
Of the three countries in the Caribbean with the largest Chinese population, Guyana boasts the most Chinese restaurants. Sheriff Street alone has 20, central Georgetown, a conservative estimate of 50 and in most communities, there are at least 2 Chinese restaurants.
Many Guyanese eat fried rice everyday, sometimes more than once a day.
The cuisine of choice when dining out is often Chinese, with fried rice being one of the most ordered dishes.
A must-have dish at many family gatherings in homes is fried rice.
Of the two restaurants to be housed at Guyana’s first 5-star hotel, at which we will showcase ourselves to the world, one is Chinese.
In the land of six races and many waters, Chinese food is where we all find common ground, it transcends race and colour and yes, I boldly say creed. It is the one thing we can all agree on – we love Chinese food, we love fried rice. It is evident in the way we have incorporated it into our culinary offerings in the most intimate and private setting – our homes. It is not just something we consume when we haven’t cooked at home.
We just can’t seem to get enough Chinese food; we can’t get enough fried rice. Home cooks have honed and crafted their fried-rice making skills to an art, my cousin’s wife, Shireen is one of them. There continues to be debate and discussion on how best to cook the rice: steamed, boiled, parched then boiled etc. Everyone in my family boasts of making good fried rice, even my brother, Eon. At family gatherings, it is an opportunity to showcase your skill.
Our Chinese food influence is predominantly Cantonese. The Chinese came to the Caribbean during the period of indentureship from the province of Guangdong. The city, Guangzhou, known to us as Canton is a major seaport located on the Pearl River. The area also flourishes with rice paddies. It is the Chinese and the Indians that introduced rice to Guyana. Like many migrant populations, the Chinese found inventive ways of using the ingredients they found here all the while staying true to their culinary heritage. Perhaps that is why they have adjusted so well in the Caribbean.
My earliest memory of eating Chinese food – chicken fried rice, would have been when I was about 9 or 10, I can’t remember clearly. What I do remember is this: every Saturday afternoon, my auntie Betty and uncle Freddy would take me to a Chinese restaurant called National. It was located on Robb Street, sort of obliquely opposite Stabroek News. All week I used to look forward to going with them on Saturdays, it was my weekend outing. We would arrive about 6 p.m. just as dusk was setting in.
The restaurant was located on the second floor of the building; we’d reach the doorway, and I would stand there flanked on either side by my aunt and uncle, my hands clasped firmly in theirs. Tilting my head up, I’d inhale deeply, I loved the smell. A wonderful world awaited me at the top of those stairs. With my eyes fixed on the top of the stairs, we’d begin our climb.
As we got closer, I heard voices of the cooks shouting and chatting among themselves, the woks sizzling and laughter. A little out of breath, I’d tug my aunt and uncle’s hands as I lead them to our usual table. Yup, we had a table. The waiter would arrive with the menus and I’d bury myself in mine, pretending to read the menu and trying make serious decisions about what to order. When Auntie Betty and Uncle Freddy finished discussing what they would order, they’d turn to me and my uncle would ask, “The usual, baby?” and baby would nod. The usual was chicken fried rice.
As young adults, my sister, Pat, and I would go often to The Orient Restaurant. At one time it was considered to be the best Chinese restaurant in Guyana. It was located at Camp and Middle streets, where Church’s Chicken is now located. The restaurant was on the top floor. We had the same thing every time we visited: corn and chicken soup or cellophane noodle soup; mixed or chicken fried rice, chow mein or low mein. We’d always order different things so that we could share and taste each other’s food.
I loved the roast chicken made with peppercorns, ginger and soy sauce, cut up into bite-size pieces and served with your food. You always want a piece that had some bone. The roast pork thinly sliced, the ginger beef – tender, hot, fresh and spicy with smoke rising from the platter; stir fried vegetables, a medley of colours and textures played deliciously with ginger, garlic and oyster sauce; roast duck with its crispy skin that crunches, rice noodles that are silky and succulent. And to top it all off, the pepper sauce; what is in Chinese pepper sauce that makes it so delicious? I just love it.
Here is Barbados we have a few Chinese restaurants and like every cuisine that has migrated, the Chinese food here has adapted. The variety of vegetables available in Guyana is not always available in Barbados nor is it necessarily cost effective. Also the palate here is not as spicy as that of Guyana or of some other countries in which I have enjoyed Chinese food, therefore, some pungent flavours have been toned down. But the Chinese cuisine is here to stay.
I say it’s time we recognize the contribution that Chinese food has made to our culture and our way of life in Guyana. Food is important to our identity as a people and as a people we cannot live without Chinese food, we do not know what life is like without Chinese food especially the ubiquitous, all-important fried rice. So, let’s honour it as one of our national dishes.
Cynthia
Email: tasteslikehome@gmail.com
Blog: www.tastesofguyana.blogspot.com
