By Steve Surujbally
When we began (May 11, 2008) discussing hookworms, the first fact which was projected had to do with the seriousness of a hookworm infection and the lethality of this worm. It is worth utilizing a column to reiterate the salient points associated with this subject matter. Hookworms are blood-suckers which secrete chemicals which prevent the host’s (infected dog/cat) blood from clotting.
These worms infect the animal by:
(i) Having their immature stages (larvae) actively bore through the dog’s skin;
(ii) Crossing over from the preganant mother dog into the foetal puppies while they are still in the womb.
(iii) Being ingested (via contaminated soil and/or faeces).
While travelling through the body, the immature stages (larvae) of the worm do damage to organs (eg the lungs) where, secondarily, bacterial (even viral) infections can lodge themselves.
The symptoms of a hookworm infestation are:
– Anaemia/paleness – Bloody diarrhoea
– Listlesness – Emaciation/weight loss
– Dehydration – Vomiting
The treatment would reflect the counteractive measures taken to alleviate the symptoms. For example, if the animal is dehydrated then we must administer (special) fluids. If there is a diarrhoea, the treatment must focus on stopping the diarrhoea. Similary, if there is blood loss, then we must consider blood transfusions.
Debilitation and listlessness will be treated with forced diets, vitamins and metabolic stimulatnts.
Prevention of the hookworm infection is maintained by ensuring a rigid deworming schedule, with the correct dewormers eg the Pyrantels. Last week, I wrote about the prophylactic measurers one can introduce on a general level. Today I would like to share with you a text on this subject matter, relative to control, that was put together by Drs Carlson and Giffin in a pet owners’ handbook:
“The life cycles of most canine worms are such that the possibility of reinfestation is great. To keep worms under control, you must destroy eggs or larvae before they infest the dog. This means good sanitation and maintaining clean dry quarters for your dog.
“Dogs should not be kennelled on dirt runs. A water-tight surface, such as cement, is the easiest to keep clean. Hose it down daily and allow it to dry thoroughly. Disinfect with boiling water and Lysol.
“Gravel is a good substitute. Usually it provides good drainage and it is easy to remove stools from gravel.
“Gravel can be disinfected with lime, salt or borax. Remove stools from the pens daily.
“Lawns should be cut short, watered only when necessary.
“Stools in the yard should be removed at least once daily.
“Fleas, lice, mice and other rodents are intermediate hosts for the tapeworm. It is necessary to get rid of these pests in order to control this disease.
“Dogs should not be allowed to roam and hunt. They could catch and devour raw meat, ingest carrion or parts of dead animals which are contaminated with worm eggs/larvae. Be sure to cook thoroughly all fresh meat before feeding it to your dog.
“Kennels that have continuous problems with worms often have other problems, too. They include skin, bowel and respiratory difficulties. Steps should be taken to improve the management of the kennel, especially sanitation measures.”
Next week we’ll deal with tapeworm infestations.
