By Dr Steve Surujbally
Conclusion
Control and treatment
You will notice that I have said ‘control’ and not ‘prevention.’ It is the devil’s own job to totally eliminate internal parasites such as tapeworms, or to remove, forever, ectoparasites – for example, fleas.
I had mentioned in a previous discussion (Pet Corner June 8, 2008) that tapes are integrally
associated with fleas. So, here we get a double whammy. Yet, no tapeworm control/elimination programme can succeed if we don’t get rid of the fleas; and, here in the tropics, this is easier said than done.
So, how do we get rid of the fleas, which are the intermediary host of dog tapeworms? Well, it’s ’simple’: we must sanitise the premises – the object being to get rid of the eggs, the intermediate stages (larvae), and the adult fleas. Of course, if we can’t eliminate the fleas – then the dog will continue to re-infect itself.
There are all sorts of methods described in literature on the issue of insect eradication. Some are impractical here in Guyana. For example, it is highly unlikely that ‘fogging’ (a smoke made of toxic chemicals) will be very efficient in the open spaces in which Guyanese dogs tend to live.
You may use these ‘gas bombs’ inside a closed kennel though. Then there are fly/flea strips from which a toxic vapour emanates. Place the strip a few feet above the pet’s predilection place. If the dog has a kennel, then the strip can be placed inside the roof or in some crevice in the floor.
Some people think that sprinkling some kind of the more popular disinfectants with their pine smell around the place will get rid of fleas’ eggs. Get real. Fleas are known to have fêtes in the presence of such disinfectants.
I prefer to advise clients to use a strong formalin or ammonia based solution. Unfortunately, the odour is pungent and quite disagreeable to the senses. If the dog has a special bedding then this must be destroyed.
If you are going to use a strong insecticide, then don’t leave out the cracks, corners and crevices where the eggs and larval stages might be hanging out.
Sevin dust is an inexpensive old favourite to kill the fleas – and in many instances, the dog as well. If you are going to dust your dog with Sevin powder, please make sure that after 30 minutes (maximum) you brush off the Sevin dust. Use the five per cent Sevin powder. Actually, it is much better if you use the Sevin powder in the dog houses and kennel runs and in the general area where the dog inhabits (resting places, sleeping quarters).
When all else fails to eliminate the fleas, call the professional exterminator – so that you have someone else to blame, if he too fails.
Treatment
I am going to be brief in handling this topic. Simply put: all the drugs you use will fail. End of story.
All the anti-tapeworm medication in the stores (including that killer ‘big purple capsule’) will not kill that type of tapeworm which is present in 99.9 per cent of our dogs. I am not going to mention the various names of anti-tapes preparations, except the tablets (injections) containing praziquantel. This latter drug works! Ask for it by name. If the drugstore does not have it in stock (and they won’t), but offers you instead Mebendazole, Dischlorophen, Dichlorvos, Fenbendazole, Bunamidine, Niclosamide – tell them “thanks, but no thanks.” These drugs have a limited to no effect on the type of tapeworm found in our dogs and cats.
So, enough is enough. We have exhausted the tapeworm topic. Next week we’ll deal with canine infectious diseases.
Please implement disease preventative measures (vaccinations, routine dewormings, monthly anti-heartworm medication, etc) and adopt-a-pet from the GSPCA’s Animal Clinic and Shelter at Robb Street and Orange Walk, if you have the wherewithal to care well for the animals. Do not stray your unwanted pets, take them to the GSPCA’s Clinic and Shelter instead. If you see anyone being cruel to an animal, or if you need any technical information, please get in touch with the Clinic and Shelter by calling 226-4237.
