For the first time in about four years, I got the opportunity to finally sit in on one of Donna Ramsammy James’s fashion shows. As I mentioned before Donna’s shows are usually invitation only and private. This year, however, it was open to the public in collaboration with the Guyana Relief Council. I have gathered the following observations from a consumer’s perspective:
Collection difference
Donna’s show was entitled Carpe Diem and though it means new life and beginnings, I somehow felt as if I gone back in time to four years ago. A lot of the cuts were similar to her previous collections and it was difficult to highlight trend pieces. Though fascinators, matching belts and the introduction of separates {tops} represented the shift from her usual collections, I still believe it wasn’t new life. If you have followed Donna’s work over the years you would know her collection usually follows a particular colour sequence. It was the same thing this year.
I was looking forward to a bit more of a radical change especially for a collection carrying the name Carpe Diem.
(Photo by Amanda Richards)
Donna is to be commended for delivering 168 garments under an hour. However, it is a lot of clothes to take in and wholesomely appreciate. I think the collection should have been smaller. There was way too much going on and that may have caused me to miss hints of Carpe Diem.
International relevance
Drawing from my experience and what has been happening internationally, it would appear as if many fashion houses are trying to push as much youthful energy into their brands as possible to keep them relevant. Hence Alexander Wang being creative director for Balenciaga and Olivier Rousteing for Balmain. We have even started to see that slow movement from Meiling in Trinidad who has introduced Team M to revamp that brand and attract younger clients. Donna has been only designing for a specific target market and you can see her designing skill was obviously influenced by this factor. I think the collection lacked youthfulness. Opening to the general public is a very tricky thing and you need to be in touch with who the general public is. What are today’s influences? How can we provoke those influences? I think if we are to open to the public we need to take into consideration what the younger folks would want. Where would they wear it to and is the aesthetic and branding strong enough to convince them this is what they should be wearing. For me I couldn’t be bothered with caring for the garment because it requires too much – can’t put it in sun and can’t mix it with most of your other garments. We live in a fast paced society. The majority of the collection has to be worn by itself. Meaning you can’t mix the pieces with the rest of your wardrobe, with the exception of the blouses. We need to look at value for money in relation to practicality of “wearings”. I was hoping that Carpe Diem would be a complete 360.
Location
Herdmanston Lodge is a beautiful heritage site but it’s not the most appropriate place to take in such a collection. I disliked the location for fashion events and fashion shows since Sonia Noel launched there. 168 garments on a claybrick catwalk isn’t appealing. Well at least for me. The models seemed to have struggled on the claybrick catwalk on several instances and this affects overall show quality. Also for patrons seated towards the back, it was very difficult to see. To experience Carpe Diem we need to connect and we need to feel a difference. I think a very intimate setting would have been ideal. The environment wasn’t suitable as much as I love the location. We need to move away from the fact that we need big elaborate spaces, open air and such. Some of the most impacting fashion shows were kept in libraries, abandoned buildings and so on.
Overall I think Donna has made a remarkable impact on the local fashion industry by setting extremely high standards as it relates to punctuality, packaging, show management and so forth. However, she missed the younger folk or at least me this time round. We love you Donna but we want an entire change. I remember Suzy Menkes saying how difficult it is for designers to create new identities after many years but it isn’t impossible. I think Shape needs a face lift.
Recommendations
I think a fashion curator to develop the stage set is needed. If Donna still wants to go ahead with the same colour coordinating show theme she should but the environment should suck us in and take us on a journey
I think far less pieces are needed. The production is a massive one but I think quality should prevail over quantity. Relaxed models also mean a better display.
I think a stylist should also come on board with Donna. We need a realistic directional focus on how these pieces can be worn on a daily basis. The pieces are very cultured and unfortunately the way society is set up people don’t want to wear tie-dye and painted garments every day. A stylist would be able to style and lift the clothes out of that sort of rut. These recommendations are based on the fact that Donna Ramsammy James has now decided to go public. If she goes back to showing privately then these recommendations and changes are not necessary as she already has a private clientele.
