Dear Editor,
I celebrated Christmas in Austria where there are deep-rooted traditions regarding the season – folk singing and dancing, going to mass, the Christmas market, lighting the tree, drinking gluhwein (a boiling hot, sweet wine), unique ornaments, visiting family, feasting, and the like. Austria is a very religious country, and people celebrate the holiday going to church much as Christians do in Guyana, but the celebration is very short compared with ours either here or in Flatbush or Richmond Hill.
Many of the Christmas celebration customs and traditions originate from Germany and Austria. It is believed Austria is among the earliest places to celebrate the holiday. But it has none of the glamour and ostentatious decorations of New York or Trinidad or parts of Guyana. Celebrations are very simple and religious. And unlike in North America, the rest of Europe and the Caribbean, etc, Christmas is celebrated on December 24. Meals are simple (no black cake or the kind of delicious cake we have in Guyana and Richmond Hill). Presents are given under the Christmas tree on Christmas Eve and not on the 25th as in many other countries. But the holiday is on the 25th and as in the Caribbean and England, Boxing Day is also a holiday. People go skiing in the Alps (snow is most spectacular from the air) for the extended weekend. The main cities are very dull inundated with mostly foreigners walking the streets and patronizing fast food outlets; they lack the beauty of say Oslo or Venice or Paris.
Austria is famous for the Christmas market with its offerings of various types of decorations, foods and drinks. These special markets started in Austria and are very famous in Innsbruck, near where the famed Ice man was found, Salzburg (home of the iconic Mozart), Vienna and other cities. From Austria, the Christmas market has become an integral part of the season in Germany and Switzerland and has found its way all over Europe and the US. The markets sell the most beautiful ornaments, hot wine and punch, ginger bread, chocolates, and an assortment of cold food and cheese. The capital city of Vienna, indeed the major cities, is picturesque, beautifully decorated with Christmas trees and colourful lights everywhere. But they are no comparison to New York or parts of Guyana and or Trinidad – none of the spectacular colours or designs found in front of Guyanese homes in Richmond Hill. The trees are no comparison to those at the Rockefeller Center or the one at Rahaman’s Park, Georgetown, or Saith Park, Trinidad. Unlike in our society when spectacular lights on the trees are lit for weeks, in Austria the tree is lit on Christmas Eve and then usually it is done for the year. Christmas is celebrated with mass and a dinner at home, (main course roast duck and roast turkey with apricot cake and cookies) although the end of year celebrations continue through January 6. Shops close early (by 2pm) on Christmas Eve and remain shut until after Boxing Day.
Like NY, there are theatre performances and concerts for Christmas – only in the evening. However, most bars, restaurants and night clubs are closed and traffic is almost non-existent from the 24th to the 26th. People are at home or at church for Dec 24 and 25.
Unlike in Guyana or the US, nativity scenes don’t have the baby Jesus until after Christmas Eve.
Trees are adorned with fruits. Gifts are exchanged after Silent Night is sung and repeated.
Christmas carols are not as popular as in New York or the Caribbean and are not heard on radio or played in stores. However, TV stations air Christmas related programmes on December 24. The 12 Days of Christmas end on Jan 6.
The main attraction for the season is the Christmas market which is seen everywhere. They are opened late November and close right after the 25th. In fact, few markets remain open after the 24th as the Christmas celebration is really over on that day.
Yours faithfully,
Vishnu Bisram