(This is the second part in a series on the jewellery industry. The first part appeared on July 11, 2014)
By Dominic Gaskin
Jewellery design is the first stage of a process that puts new products on the market. Even though sketching by hand is still used to explore and depict concepts, the use of computer aided design (CAD) software has increased tremendously over the last decade. There is little doubt that CAD is now the tool of choice for jewellery designers around the world since, with many programmes fully compatible with downstream processing applications, it provides a more seamless integration into the manufacturing stages.
The design stage is almost completely missing in Guyana’s jewellery production regime. Its role as a provider of new designs has been usurped by the widespread use of imported Chinese moulds into which gold is melted to form items of jewellery. This provides an easy way for goldsmiths to produce a never ending range of jewellery. From a developmental point of view, however, it does little to promote design skills within the industry.
Importation of finished jewellery also reduces the need for local designer input. Investment in product design and development is not likely to take place naturally and would need to be stimulated somehow. This is an area that shouldn’t be overlooked because the successful transformation of this industry will hinge not just on the quality and price of its products, but also on our ability to put new products on the market and develop a reputation for creativity.
Jewellery making is a specialized field and designers need to understand the various processes by which jewellery is produced so as not to exceed the practical limitations of actual production. Knowledge of materials is equally important since these too have limitations. Designers will also need to master the art of working with very precise measurements in a 3-dimensional mode. Yet, this is an area into which Guyana can venture and efforts should be made to accommodate jewellery design within the country’s expanding IT sector as a viable part of its advancement.
Computers are already being used in high schools to develop technical drawing skills, render art work and create 3-dimensional models, so the challenge is largely one of generating interest in a new application for existing skills.
Talented designers need not hang around waiting for local manufacturers to make their pieces come alive, since digital communication allows them to offer their work internationally. Professional software allows development beyond the design stage so that virtual 3-dimensional models can be created which manufacturers, with the right equipment, can translate into actual replicas suitable for casting in precious metals. So, in effect, a designer in Guyana can create a range of products, send them in a machine-ready format to a manufacturer in China, India or the USA, and sell them to a client in France or Germany with delivery occurring directly from the manufacturer to that client. While things are seldom that simple, the point is that a strong design industry can attach itself to the global jewellery supply chain without an accompanying physical product.
Ultimately, however, a pool of local jewellery designers would greatly enhance an expanding manufacturing industry by providing the creative input required to constantly align product ranges with market trends; as well as creating a brand of our own.
Developing the manufacturing arm of the sector will prove much more challenging. Advances in technology have gone completely unnoticed in this neck of the woods, and if we wish to participate in this globally competitive industry we will have to undergo urgent modernization. Some of the technologies used in the manufacture of jewellery include:
Computer aided manufacturing (CAM)
Various separate technologies making up the lost-wax casting process from start to finish Pneumatically assisted tools Magnifying, lighting and display technologies for micro work Laser technology for marking/engraving and welding Electro-plating technology for finishing Chain making technology for large scale production Die-making and stamping technologies Refining technologies for recovery of precious metal waste Seminars highlighting the use of various technologies are useful for generating interest. Video material is easily available wherever live demonstrations are not possible. Knowledge sharing is an important aspect of development and needs to be encouraged and even facilitated.
Apart from not having invested in technology over the decades, the industry has also failed to create a pool of trained workers available for employment. This means that training is required before production can take place. The good news is that the use of technology means less laborious handcrafting and allows the use of semi-skilled workers with emphasis placed on repeated performance of a single task rather than acquiring multiple skills. This reduces the length of training required and therefore makes it possible to establish production facilities without having to rely on a workforce with years of experience. However, it would be a good idea to develop a set of standards for the training of jewellery workers that focuses on safety, quality, accountability and other areas that are susceptible to bad working habits. The establishment of a jewellery institute has already been attempted, and has failed. The idea needs to be revisited, but as part of a broader developmental plan. Ideally, manufacturers looking for particular skills should be able to hire trainees and outsource the training to such an institute. Creative solutions must be explored in order to keep training facilities viable and in use all year round.
Factory space for this industry does not have to be extensive. Dollar for dollar, jewellery production takes up much less space than most other manufacturing processes. It is worth looking for ways to avoid investors having to invest the bulk of their capital on land and buildings at the expense of productive capacity. Small units of various sizes housed in purpose-built structures have worked well in other countries and are useful for bringing together different specialist skills under one roof so that smaller outfits can outsource certain aspects of the manufacturing process in a secure location. There are other options that can be explored, but we will have to look beyond our traditional goldsmithing establishments for suitable models.
Industry support
Marketing – Marketing expertise specific to the mainstream jewellery industry is an imperative for the development of the sector. Professional services must be available to put local manufacturers in touch with the most appropriate international buyers for their products and to provide guidance on market requirements and related best practices. An umbrella brand to promote Guyana’s jewellery would certainly provide a helpful platform for an industry lacking international exposure, especially if it is officially embraced. Marketing works, and ways must be found to promote our jewellery as far and wide as possible.
Security – Products tailored to all the needs of the industry are critical to minimizing risk levels and encouraging investments in the sector. The high-value of its products makes loss-reduction from theft a major factor in determining competitiveness in this industry. But even with the best security products and services, jewellers still need to operate in a supporting environment when it comes to security, and policing in general will have to be improved. More specifically the Police Force should consider acquiring some expertise in crime prevention and investigation for the jewellery industry.
Financing and Insurance – These are areas where specialized products are required to support the high costs of raw materials and inventories and reduce the risk of doing business. A more complete understanding of how the industry functions would allow financial and insurance institutions to better assess its needs and offer more appropriate products.
Shipping – The reliable transfer of large quantities of small high-value packages, to and from anywhere in the world, must be made possible with no hint of uncertainty if we are to build a world-class jewellery industry. Movement of merchandize in and out of Guyana must be swift, secure and affordable. There are functioning systems all over the world and we need allow these systems to work in Guyana.
Customs brokerage – A professional service free from illegitimate practices needs to be available to facilitate the movement of goods in and out of Guyana in accordance with official systems and regulations. Brokers offering their services to the industry must be familiar with the unique range of materials imported and exported by the industry and their correct classifications under the Customs and VAT Acts.
Legal and regulatory – Every effort must be made to facilitate the expansion of this potentially transformative industry. Sections of the Mining, GGMC, Gold Board, Customs and VAT Acts, among others need to be reviewed and amended so as to encourage investors and industry operators to pursue legitimate objectives within the realm of a strategic plan for the industry’s development. Where it can be shown that sections of these Acts provide a disincentive to the legitimate development of the jewellery industry, and that the economic benefits of developing the industry far outweigh any benefits that the Government would realistically forego by their revocation then they should be revoked or amended.
Gemmology – Professional gemological services would boost the confidence of the industry when it comes to the use of diamonds and gemstones in jewellery. Diamond and gemstone jewellery represent a significant amount of world jewellery sales, and a number of best practices have been adopted by various countries around the world in order to better serve the industry and protect consumers. Such guidelines along with trained professionals would assist us in accessing this lucrative section of the market.
Foreign trade – Guyana has signed a number of Free Trade agreements which allow preferential access of goods and services to foreign markets. The industry should take advantage of all available data in order to better assess in which markets it can enjoy a competitive advantage.
Standards and quality – Currently there are industry standards for purity of the various precious metals used in jewellery manufacture and these are implemented through marking stipulations for jewellery sold in most jurisdictions. There are also industry standards for ring sizes, diamond grading and for terminology used in describing certain gemstones. The Guyana National Bureau of Standards is the local agency responsible for developing standards and monitoring compliance in the jewellery sector. There is currently only one standard in force, and that is the Specification for Gold Articles, GYS 50:2010, which deals with purity and marking requirements for gold jewellery. The Bureau also administers a product certification scheme for gold jewellery which has failed to gain the confidence of the industry despite its eighteen years of existence. Product certification is becoming increasingly prevalent in the diamond and gemstone trade with Gemological Institute of America (GIA) certificates being the most widely accepted, globally.
There is a range of quality levels when it comes to design, aesthetics and finishing, that cater to different levels of the market. Even among products in compliance with prevailing standards in their jurisdictions, there are noticeable differences between low and high-end jewellery which are reflected in the prices they command. This is a very subjective area, but an appreciation of these differences is fundamental to developing product lines for the export market. Better quality is achieved by a combination of better design, better quality control, better equipment, better technique and the use of better raw materials, all of which have costs attached which the manufacturer must be willing to bear long before attracting any premium prices that may accrue. Any expansion plan for the local industry should include a high-end component to add substance and earn the kind of reputation that can put Guyana on the world’s jewellery map.
Trade Association – The Guyana National Association of Goldsmiths and Jewellers is all but defunct. It was formed in 1993 in preparation for a number of donor-funded programmes administered by the GGMC. The lack of any recent programmes and its inability to influence official policy towards the industry may have led to its current state of inactivity. Some formal body ought to be in place to engage with stakeholders on behalf of local jewellers, however, if this body is to remain relevant there needs to be a willingness at the official level to review policies affecting the industry and make changes in order to facilitate its development. Such a body must also have a mandate to pursue development as its main objective. This could prove a challenge in an industry where bread and butter issues still remain a priority for so many.
Conclusion
Unless those tasked with developing Guyana’s manufacturing potential have the unshakable confidence to work towards a vision of what is possible in a targeted and strategic manner then it will not happen. The jewellery sector is no different from any other sector in that its development is dependent on policy initiatives that require government input. A government that is serious about economic diversification has to encourage and support its manufacturing sector and must do so unequivocally. The vision of a modern and competitive jewellery industry exporting in excess of US$1B annually by the year 2030 is an entirely possible one and is achievable with proper planning. The development of a comprehensive plan for making this happen will cost a pittance compared with the benefits of such an achievement, and the government should seriously consider such an initiative. However, this cannot be a mere academic exercise farmed out to consultants with little interest in its eventual outcome.
As stated earlier, Guyana can become the jewellery capital of Atlantic. There are a number of models that can be explored and different ways of achieving each. At the very least a healthy consultation should be had between interested parties and stakeholders to see if we have what it takes to transform an industry.
