Thinking Holiday Foods

Pepperpot - will not be adding pig trotters or beef this year (Photo by Cynthia Nelson)
Pepperpot – will not be adding pig trotters or beef this year (Photo by Cynthia Nelson)

It is a ritual in which we engage every year, regardless of the holiday. Rituals (because they have symbolism) dictate that certain things be made for religious festivals, however, holidays, such as Christmas, are more about what is traditional and seasonal. Each year we engage in familiar activities such as prepping fruits for cake, setting drinks, curing meats etc. And each year, we seek to improve them, regardless of how many years we have been making them. It’s all part of what makes the holidays, the holidays.

If we think carefully, it makes sense. During the year, there would have been personal growth and experiences. We might have travelled, been involved in certain activities, learned lessons and shared memories, all of which would contribute in some way to how we are planning and preparing for the holidays, whether that is through decorating, gift-giving or the food and drinks we prepare. Other major factors that contribute to this might be our physical and emotional state of being and their influence.

Baked Ham – mix ground cloves into glaze to baste ham (Photo by Cynthia Nelson)

What are some adjustments, changes or improvements you are making to your holiday cooking this year? Here are mine – so far, though I don’t think I will be doing much more.

PEPPERPOT

In addition to cow heel and pig trotters, I usually put beef in my Pepperpot, but not this year. I am ditching the pig trotters and the beef. I will make it with a combination of cow heel and pork hocks/knuckles (uncured ham hocks). The knuckles/hocks are the bottom part of the pig’s legs, it’s the bottom of the leg bone also known as the extreme shank. It is meaty, has bone, gristle and collagen which all contribute good flavour and texture.

I decided to do away with the trotters because I found they added more fat to the Pepperpot and there is already enough fat from the cow heel. The beef, I find that after the first 2 days of reheating, the texture is unappealing and unappetizing. It loses that tender, melt-in-your-mouth feel and becomes chewy, not in a tough way but more in a way that it’s like it dries out becoming fibre that you do not want to swallow. Anyone else have this type of experience? Mind you, the beef is beautiful to eat the first 2 days. I think the repeated heating does something to change the structure of the meat.

BREAD

I am adding anise seed to my bread. I find it adds good flavour when eaten with the Pepperpot and used to make ham sandwiches. In the past I didn’t always add anise seed but now I prefer this to be my holiday bread rather than it being plain. I will also use a combination of milk and water to make the dough rather than all water. The combo will improve the crumb and texture even more. Toasted and buttered or spread with jam, this spiced bread is especially delicious.

HAM

In addition to studding the ham with cloves, I am going to borrow something I learnt from my friend Paula but do it slightly differently. She mixes ground cloves with mustard and rubs the paste onto her ham to bake. What I plan to do is to mix some ground cloves into my glaze and have it baked into the ham. I will let the ground cloves heat with the glaze so it is well incorporated into the fruit glaze. I’m not yet sure which jam I am using for the glaze – pineapple, guava, sorrel, apricot or orange.

BAKED PORK

Instead of a large roast, I am thinking that I will let the butcher cut 2-inch thick shoulder chops, aka country-style ribs. This cut of meat is from the upper, meatier part of the shoulder. It’s one of my favourite cuts of pork. I plan to make a paste of roasted garlic, fresh thyme and hot pepper with which I will generously rub the chops and leave to marinate for 24 hours. I’ll bake it covered low and slow and then remove the cover in the last 30 to 45 minutes to brown and let the juices concentrate. This way, I do not have to think about making a gravy or carving meat. If you do not eat pork, but you like lamb or mutton, have your butcher cut the same cut of shoulder meat and you can bake it the same way. Instead of thyme, if you have available, use fresh rosemary.

RICE

No fried rice this year. Drawing inspiration from a Bajan favourite, I will be making Rice and Peas my way. I’ll cook it with fresh coconut milk, softened onions and fresh thyme that will add sweetness and flavour.

SALAD

Potatoes, chicken breasts poached in an herby broth and boiled eggs will be combined to make a salad. I like all three of these things in salad form so combining them is happy eating. The salad can be eaten as a side dish, on its own or accompanied by a garden salad. I am excited just thinking about this.

VEGETABLE

I am roasting one vegetable this year, a favourite of mine – broccoli. I’ll top it with toasted seasoned breadcrumbs for crunch. I’m not making any garden salad.

DESSERT

I’ve been seeing a flan/crème caramel style of bread pudding that I have been longing to try. I am going to give it a test run over the weekend and tell you about it in next week’s column. Hopefully it turns out well and you can make it as one of your holiday desserts too. I am wondering if to make a punch de crème custard for it; if to add some of the set Christmas fruits to it; simply add raisins, or if to make it with a plain custard and don’t add any sort of fruits. What do you think? Oh, decisions, decisions.

I’ll end here leaving you to think through what you are planning to make and what tweaks, adjustments or improvements you might consider making for your holiday feast.

Cynthia

[email protected]

www.tasteslikehome.org